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Chocolate and Zucchini: Daily Adventures in a Parisian Kitchen Paperback – May 15, 2007
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Clotilde Dusoulier is a twenty-seven-year-old Parisian who adores sharing her love of all things food-related—recipes, inspirations, restaurant experiences, and above all the pleasure of cooking with the fresh ingredients found in her local Montmartre shops. But her infatuation with food was born not in her mother’s Parisian kitchen, but in San Francisco, where she moved after college and discovered a new world of tastes. When she returned to her beloved France, her culinary exploits inspired her popular and critically acclaimed blog, ChocolateandZucchini.com.
In her first book, Dusoulier provides a glimpse into the life of a young Parisian as she savors all that the city has to offer and shares her cooking philosophy in the form of more than 75 recipes that call for healthy ingredients (such as zucchini) and more indulgent tastes (such as chocolate). The Los Angeles Times calls her recipes "simple, charming, and fun."
Appetizers such as Cumin Cheese Puffs, sandwiches and tarts like Tomato Tatin, soups like Chestnut and Mushroom, main dishes including Mustard Chicken Stew, and desserts like Chocolate and Caramel Tart can all be found alongside menus for entertaining, as well as tips for throwing cocktail or dinner parties with French flair. Chocolate & Zucchini is the book for anyone who has journeyed to Paris and can still recall the delicious flavors and aromas—or for those of us who only dream about them.
- Print length272 pages
- LanguageEnglish
- PublisherClarkson Potter
- Publication dateMay 15, 2007
- Dimensions6.16 x 0.66 x 7.98 inches
- ISBN-100767923839
- ISBN-13978-0767923835
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Editorial Reviews
From Publishers Weekly
Copyright © Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.
Review
—Susan Herrmann Loomis, author of On Rue Tatin and The French Farmhouse Cookbook
"This collection of remarkably accomplished recipes, from market-fresh salads to indulgent desserts, includes a soupçon of tasty tales and tips from Clotilde’s Parisian kitchen, and is sure to inspire readers and cooks no matter where they live."
—David Lebovitz, author of The Perfect Scoop and Room For Dessert
"Is there any food lover who doesn't dream about living, cooking, and eating in Paris? This charming homage to French home cooking feeds that fantasy with a feast."
—Melissa Clark
“Clotilde Dusoulier’s comfortable, homey food has just the right amount of authentic French flair, and her stories of life in Paris speak to food’s universal ability to bring people together and make them happy. Of course, being transported to Paris never hurts either.”
—Dave Lieberman
About the Author
Excerpt. © Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.
SIMPLICITY
You know how it is. Whenever you’re at a party with people you don’t know, someone is bound to pop the question, “So, what do you do?” I have to say I expand upon the subject with infinitely more animation now that my work matches my inner wants and needs, and when I do, my interlocutor unfailingly turns to Maxence with twinkling eyes to exclaim,“Wow, it must be an endless display of gastronomic prowess at your place!”
Full disclosure: not really. We eat well, that much is true, fresh vegetables from the greenmarket and quality goods from the shops around us, but the day–to–day menus are simple, and on weeknights we rely heavily on what we call picnic dinners: a bit of cheese from the cheese shop, a modest selection from the charcuterie, or leftover bits and pieces from the previous day’s cooking. Add a hunk of bread from the bakery, a green salad or a bowl of soup, and you’ve got yourself a quickly assembled and heartily enjoyed meal.
And on other nights, when inspiration propels me into the kitchen, it’s with an ample measure of improvisation that I cook, rummaging through the contents of the fridge, and putting together dishes that capture the day's mood and weather. This section holds a few favorites for simple meals, around which I’ll weave variations to use what’s on hand.
SALADE DE POULET, PÊCHES & NOISETTES
Chicken Salad with Peaches and Hazelnuts
When I still worked in an office — before I joined the pajama workforce — I often brought my own lunch. It was a habit I had formed when I lived in the States and this was a widespread custom: I would join my coworkers in the bright orange company kitchen, and we would munch on our respective meals over a game of Boggle (I never once won, but it did enrich my English vocabulary with three– and four–letter words).
At my French office it was less common, and most of my colleagues walked to a nearby bistro for the plat du jour. This was quite pleasant and I joined them from time to time to catch up on office gossip, but for reasons of nutrition, cost, and variety, I still enjoyed putting together my little picnic in the morning.
In the summer, I liked to pack colorful salads and escape to the nearby Parc Montsouris at lunchtime. As I entered the park I would pass by a gastronomic restaurant set in a handsome pavilion and pore over the daily menu in lieu of an appetizer. I would walk on to sit by the little lake, where a handful of ducks swam about, in the vague hope that someone might throw stale bits of baguette their way.
A fork in my right hand, a book in the left, and the container of salad propped up against me with my left wrist — a technique that took years to refine — I would dig in happily, comfortable in my delicious solitude. And after a little post–lunch walk I would return to the office, refreshed and sated.
This salad is a staple from those days, and I still prepare it now for quick lunches, simple dinners, or party buffets. It is an excellent use for leftover roasted chicken, which I like to buy at a rotisserie on rue des Abbesses, where the farm-raised chickens are plump and delectable, and where the lady looks strikingly like the famous French actress Marie–Anne Chazel.
• 3 ripe yellow peaches, about 7 ounces each (substitute yellow nectarines)
• 3 tablespoons hazlenut oil (substitute walnut oil or extra virgin olive oil)
• 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
• 1 pound cooked chicken meat cut into strips, from a store-bought rotisserie chicken or a home-roasted chicken, about 3 cups
• 2/3 cup shelled hazlenuts, toasted, husked, and roughly chopped
• 1/2 cup (loosely packed) fresh cilantro leaves (substitute fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves)
• Fine sea salt and freshly ground pepper
• 8 cups (packed) baby spinach leaves, about 8 ounces
Serves 4 as a main course, 6 to 8 as a starter
1. Peel the peaches: this is easier if you blanch them first by putting them in a pan of simmering water for a minute. (If you use nectarines, it is unnecessary to peel them.)
2. In a medium salad bowl, whisk together the oil and vinegar. Add the chicken, peaches, hazelnuts, and cilantro. Season with salt and pepper, and toss to coat. Add the spinach leaves and toss again. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve immediately, or refrigerate for up to a day; it gets better as it sits. Remove from the fridge half an hour before eating.
NOTE If you prepare the salad in advance, the vinegar will wilt the greens a little. It will still taste good, but may not look as presentable: if you make it ahead for company, add the spinach at the last minute.
VARIATION Use fresh (or dried) apricots and almonds instead of peaches and hazelnuts.
WINE WEIN & SEKTGUT THIELEN MERLEN FETTGARTEN 2003 RIESLING SPATLESE (Germany, Mosel–Saar–Ruwer, white) A light–bodied wine with stone fruit flavors that reinforce the peach in the salad. Excellent balance between sweetness, to complement the slightly bitter nuts, and acidity, to stand up to the balsamic vinegar.
Invitation
ENTERTAINING
While I love eating out with friends, having them at home is something else entirely: the atmosphere is more intimate, you get to choose your own musical ambiance, and you're free to partake in the kind of conversation you wouldn’t dream of letting anyone overhear in a crowded bistro. Of course, that means no eavesdropping for you, either, but you can't win on all counts.
Whether you are inviting friends for a simple apéritif, putting together an impromptu dinner, planning a more elaborate menu, or throwing a party, this section offers tips and recipes to make the occasion stress–free and successful.
GOUGÈRES AU CUMIN
Cumin Cheese Puffs
The classic version calls for cheese as the only flavoring, but I like to use cumin in mine: this complements the fruitiness of the cheese remarkably well and adds a welcome piquancy. Serve with an apértif drink, or use the same batter to make large gougères (about 3 inches in diameter) and serve as a first course, with a salad.
• 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, diced
• 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
• 1 cup flour, sifted
• 4 large eggs
• 1 teaspoon whole cumin seeds or 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
• 1 1/2 cups freshly grated Comté or Gruyère, about 5 ounces (substitute a good Swiss cheese)
Makes about 40 gougères
Chilling time: 30 minutes
1. Measure all the ingredients before you start. Combine the butter, salt, and 1 cup water in a medium saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium–low heat. Remove from heat, add the flour all at once, and stir quickly with a wooden spoon unitl well blended. Return the pan to medium–low heat and keep stirring until the mixture forms a ball and pulls away from the sides of the pan.
2. Let cool for 3 minutes. Add the eggs one by one, stirring well between each addition, until incorporated. (What you have just made is a pâte à choux.) Sprinkle with cumin and pepper and fold in the cheese. The batter will be thick. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes, or up to a day.
3. Preheat the oven to 400°F and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Remove the batter from the fridge, and use two teaspoons to shape small balls of batter (about 1 inch in diameter) that you will plop onto the baking sheet, leaving an inch of space between each. If you have to work in batches, cover the batter and return it to the fridge.
4. Bake for 20 minutes, until puffy and golden — however much you want to peek inside, do not open the oven door during the first 10 minutes of baking, or the gougères will not rise well. Turn off the oven, open the door just a crack, and leave the gougères in for another 5 minutes. (This helps prevent an abrupt temperature change, which would cause the gougères to deflate and nobody wants that.) Transfer to a cooling rack for 5 minutes and serve warm, or let cool and serve at room temperature.
NOTE You can freeze the gougères for up to a month and reheat them (no thawing necessary) in a 350°F oven for 8 minutes. They won't be as moist as freshly baked ones, but they are very convenient to have on hand for unexpected guests.
VARIATIONS Replace the cumin with caraway seeds, rosemary, or paprika, or omit the spices altogether.
Product details
- Publisher : Clarkson Potter; First Edition (May 15, 2007)
- Language : English
- Paperback : 272 pages
- ISBN-10 : 0767923839
- ISBN-13 : 978-0767923835
- Item Weight : 1.1 pounds
- Dimensions : 6.16 x 0.66 x 7.98 inches
- Best Sellers Rank: #615,214 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
- #153 in Chocolate Baking
- #164 in California Cooking, Food & Wine
- #385 in French Cooking, Food & Wine
- Customer Reviews:
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Customers find the cookbook yields delicious recipes that are simple to follow, with one noting the wine recommendations for each dish. Moreover, the book is easy to read, with one customer describing it as a refreshing view of life and food. Additionally, the writing style is charming, and customers appreciate the photos, with one mentioning they are taken by the author. They find the cookbook practical and helpful, with one review highlighting the encouragement to substitute or improvise ingredients.
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Customers enjoy the recipes in the book, finding them delicious and simple to follow, with one customer noting the wine recommendations provided with each dish.
"...readers such as "Sardine and Tomato Club Sandwich" but I found it delicious and actually something you would secretly throw together when no one was..." Read more
"...Dusoulier has given us a superb study in a love of food and cooking, and manages to include even more substantial tips on technique than the `Naked..." Read more
"...It is great! The book has nice quality photos, the recipes are simple and well described, and the writing style is charming...." Read more
"...The recipes are varied and cover every course including breakfast...." Read more
Customers find the cookbook enjoyable to read, with one mentioning it's a great pleasure to read cookbooks, and another noting it's a superb foodie read.
"...It's a fun read with great advice and yes, you can shut your eyes and pretend you do live in Paris..." Read more
"...And, this is an example of one of the most enjoyable aspects of the book, in that so many recipes include surprising combinations of ingredients..." Read more
"...It is great! The book has nice quality photos, the recipes are simple and well described, and the writing style is charming...." Read more
"...Part memoir, part cookbook, part shopping guide, part entertaining guide, and part inspiration comes together in what is probably one of the few..." Read more
Customers find the book interesting and fun to read, with one customer noting it offers a refreshing view of life and food.
"...Trust me. It's innovative, down-to-earth, fun, yet practical too, with the occasional 'leap of faith' e.g. the chocolate and zucchini cake...." Read more
"...Part memoir, part cookbook, part shopping guide, part entertaining guide, and part inspiration comes together in what is probably one of the few..." Read more
"...More books are bound to follow; the author is young, enthusiastic and driven to explore the adventure of good food...." Read more
"I love this book. Interesting, easy to use and yields delicious recipes...." Read more
Customers find the book visually appealing, with one customer noting its whimsical approach and another highlighting its simple, down-to-earth style.
"...Trust me. It's innovative, down-to-earth, fun, yet practical too, with the occasional 'leap of faith' e.g. the chocolate and zucchini cake...." Read more
"...The photos are by the author and are stunning. This is a book you will want to give to friends, who will find it much more welcome than flowers...." Read more
"...I haven't seen anything that really excites me. She is really cute...and I am interested in all things French...so I will be giving this book..." Read more
"...makes for practical, tasty recipes and more creativity in the kitchen...." Read more
Customers appreciate the writing style of the book, describing it as charming, with one customer noting it is distinctly French.
"...The book has nice quality photos, the recipes are simple and well described, and the writing style is charming...." Read more
"...The book is the outgrowth of her very successful and witty blog of the same name, and I notice that it has as of today reached #118 on Amazon's..." Read more
"...I also became a fan of her writing style, which was gently funny and welcoming, and when the book came out, I had to get it...." Read more
"...of Clotilde's blog, it was a natural that she evolved into a sterling writer and recipe developer...." Read more
Customers find the book practical and helpful, with one mentioning it provides encouragement to substitute or improvise ingredients.
"...Trust me. It's innovative, down-to-earth, fun, yet practical too, with the occasional 'leap of faith' e.g. the chocolate and zucchini cake...." Read more
"...part shopping guide, part entertaining guide, and part inspiration comes together in what is probably one of the few books I'll keep out this year...." Read more
"...Her emphasis on good ingredients, and encouragement to substitute or improvise to work with the freshest items..." Read more
"...This one is delightful. Some excellent ideas and recipes. Especially fun for those of us who have been to Paris." Read more
Customers find the recipes very easy to follow, with one mentioning that they are not complicated affairs.
"...Something humble and simple, whipped up lightheartedly, will always taste better than an elaborate dish prepared by a stressed-out, cranky cook."..." Read more
"...The recipes are not complicated affairs, but mostly things you can make from stuff you probably have on hand, or can easily find...." Read more
"I love this book. Interesting, easy to use and yields delicious recipes...." Read more
"...Clotilde's recipes are easy enough to make for a non-gourmet like me, and interesting enough that they bring something new to my repertoire." Read more
Customers appreciate the photos in the book, with one noting that they are taken by the author.
"...It is great! The book has nice quality photos, the recipes are simple and well described, and the writing style is charming...." Read more
"...The photos are by the author and are stunning. This is a book you will want to give to friends, who will find it much more welcome than flowers...." Read more
"...Great pics of the final results fill the book. I've had great success with all the recipes...." Read more
"...I have had a wonderful time looking at the beautiful photographs and love her commentary...." Read more
Top reviews from the United States
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- Reviewed in the United States on June 3, 2007"It's great to nudge yourself out of your comfort zone, as that's how you'll grow as a cook, but don't take things (or yourself) too seriously: play with your food, and do whatever feels right and enjoyable. Something humble and simple, whipped up lightheartedly, will always taste better than an elaborate dish prepared by a stressed-out, cranky cook." -Clotilde Dusoulier
That's on page xxi in the section 'My Cooking Philosophy" of the book "Chocolate and Zucchini: Daily Adventures in a Parisian Kitchen. If that way of thinking and approaching food appeals to you I know you will enjoy this little gem of a book! Trust me. It's innovative, down-to-earth, fun, yet practical too, with the occasional 'leap of faith' e.g. the chocolate and zucchini cake.
This book presents what a talented and creative lover of food might very well "throw together" at home in Paris and encourages you to do the same, no matter where you live. I wanted to write a review the day I received it (yes, I've followed her Blog for quite a while) for it seemed already familiar, like an old friend dropping by who had been on a journey and was now in my home. BUT to review a cookbook without trying out the actual recipes did not seem logical to me.
It's a fun read with great advice and yes, you can shut your eyes and pretend you do live in Paris (yet when you open them it's best to have some food sitting there)! Without too much effort you can please yourself and freinds with "downhome Paris" cooking in no time. To start - the Chocolate and Zucchini cake I found was best if you did NOT tell your friends the name of said cake..... just offer it casually with a side of ice cream or gelato or just as is and watch them ask for another piece. I made it with butter but Clotilde also suggests the peppery undertone of olive oil. I appreciate the optional method being given. Trust me, it's delicious!
The Honey Spice Loaf, perfect for Fall was also great in the Summer! If you like molasses and spice cookies, you'll love this loaf. Clotilde suggests candied ginger as an option and I heartedly agree. It really added a nice texture and added flavor kick.
The Curried Turkey Sandwich is wonderful and is made without mayo. I've nothing against mayo but this was nice and lighter in flavor and fat calories!
Baby Spinach and Shrimp Chilled Soup is light but satisfying and oh so easy. It calls for kefir but buttermilk (which is what I had on hand) may be used.
Lavender Apricot Compote was sublime. Apricots are in season now and I have lavender growing in my yard. No, I don't live in some exotic locale - I'm in Little Rock AR which is too far from Paris but I can pretend otherwise and enjoy the process with the help of this book! If you don't have apricots Clotilde suggests peaches or plums.
Yes, I have enjoyed everything I've made so far (there are more) and did not find anything difficult to put together. Some things may not appeal to some readers such as "Sardine and Tomato Club Sandwich" but I found it delicious and actually something you would secretly throw together when no one was looking and you were maybe home alone, only to discover you had a new delicious offering worth adding to your repertoire!!
I almost forgot to mention that Clotilde also gives wine recommendations for all her recipes - an unexpected plus for such a small cookbook. If any of the above appealed to you, buy this book (you cannot beat the price), read it, enjoy it and cook from it - you won't be sorry and hopefully you'll find a new friend in Clotilde and her enthusiastic approach to eating.
- Reviewed in the United States on May 16, 2007`Chocolate & Zucchini' is written and photographed by Clotilde Dusoulier, a French culinary writer who spent several formative years in San Francisco. This book, subtitled `Daily Adventures in a Parisian Kitchen' is the second book I've read and reviewed which is based on a popular culinary blog, the first being `Julie and Julia' by Julie Powell. While the books have this Internet origin in common, they are quite different in several regards. Ms. Powell writes a memoir of her experiences in working her way through all the recipes in Julia Child's `Mastering the Art of French Cooking'. Ms. Dusoulier's work has many more similarities with Nigel Slater's `Kitchen Diaries'. Powell's journey is dedicated to reproducing a set of classic, highly defined recipes. Slater and Mme. Dusoulier celebrate impromptu cooking, based on seasonal availability and a creative spirit supported by a deep understanding of the raw materials of dishes and a firm grasp of cooking techniques.
Thus, Mme. Dusoulier's recipes are all relatively simpler than those documented by the great Julia Child. And, virtually all the recipes are not so much models to be followed to the letter, but lessons in how to develop one's improvisational skills, since the most interesting aspects of most recipes is how Clotilde came to make the dishes, and what special techniques she may have used or developed in order to make the dish easily. Two examples illustrate this point.
First, ratatouille is a classic Provincial dish typically built from sautéed eggplant, zucchini, onions, sweet peppers, and tomatoes. The heart of the technique is to prepare each vegetable individually, so that cooking times can be tuned to the textures of each component. Then, all cooked ingredients are combined for a final heating en casserole and melding of flavors, plus the addition of a final touch of parsley (Child) or basil (`Joy of Cooking'). Many writers have come up with `quick' versions of the dish, and Mme. Dusoulier abbreviates the procedure by mixing all the prepped veggies in a baking dish and baking it, covered, for 45 minutes. Aside from requiring less `baby-sitting', this technique avoids the risk of mushy eggplant and zucchini. I made this recipe and find it has most of the virtues of the classic ratatouille, but it tends to be more crisp than `saucy' which makes it a great pasta sauce (one of my favorite uses for leftover ratatouille).
Second, one of the glories of French pastry work is `pate sablee' or short pastry, the kind commonly used in both classic French tarts and that very American apple pie. The problem is that classic short pastry requires a fairly careful technique that is almost impossible to get right after the first try. One never quite believes that the crumbly dough really has enough moisture in it to come together, and using a food processor is even more likely to lead to overheated or overmoistened dough. Mme. Dusoulier's short cut, which she attributes to her mother, is to remove the steps requiring rolling out and transporting the delicate dough to your pie or tart pan. Instead, she takes the crumbly moist Ur-dough and presses it into the plate as we are taught to do with graham cracker crusts for cheesecakes. I've tried this technique and believe that it is great for thin French tarts, but that it has some weaknesses when applied to the American deep dish pies, where one is expecting a crisp bottom crust with flaky layers. But one is far better equipped to improvise interesting things if you know both techniques.
The title shared by the book and the blog represent Mme. Dusoulier's interest in both the sweet and the savory; however, one is delighted to find that there is actually a chocolate and zucchini cake recipe in the book. The dish is a cousin to the familiar zucchini bread or banana bread, but with the special surprise appearance of chocolate chips. And, this is an example of one of the most enjoyable aspects of the book, in that so many recipes include surprising combinations of ingredients (surprising at least to my provincial Pennsylvania sensibilities).
This rather slim book does not contain a lot of recipes, but you do not buy this book simply for its recipes. Like Nigel Slater's book, and unlike so many cookbooks by culinary celebrities, this is a book you will really want to read from cover to cover. Many of the recipes are standards (see above), but none of them are done following a recipe by either Julia Child, Elizabeth David, or even Auguste Escoffier. They are all expressions of the author's improvisations to suit the contents of her pantry on any given day. This makes the book a great exercise in the principals of Tom Colicchio's `How to Think Like a Chef', for which this volume is an excellent extension, at less than half the cost.
Like Jamie Oliver, another of my favorite Brit culinary writers, Mme. Dusoulier has given us a superb study in a love of food and cooking, and manages to include even more substantial tips on technique than the `Naked Chef'. She also happens to be a far better writer than Sir Jamie.
Oh, and I almost forgot to point out that the book includes very specific wine pairings with each savory dish, very similar to those done by Patricia Wells in most of her books. Like Wells, the author specifies both chateau and year, and not just a generic varietal such as Pinot Noir or locale such as Burgundy.
For anyone who loves cookbooks, this is a must buy and read.
- Reviewed in the United States on May 24, 2007I have been reading the blog Chocolate and Zucchini for years and love it. But since a blog is different from a cookbook, I didn't know what to expect when my pre-ordered copy arrived. It is great! The book has nice quality photos, the recipes are simple and well described, and the writing style is charming. The day the book arrived I made an onion quiche from the section on savory tarts and it was really good. It prompted my fiancé say that he was a bit angry that he hadn't had it before!
What is so great about this book is what is great about the blog - if you secretly always wanted to live in Paris, and if you love food and cooking, then it allows you full access to a life that is just what you fantasize about for yourself. The writer finds food inspiring and she allows the reader to share her passion. The recipes are not complicated affairs, but mostly things you can make from stuff you probably have on hand, or can easily find. They won't take all day- you can make them for dinner tonight, and perhaps find a new favorite for the people you love.
Top reviews from other countries
- NinaganReviewed in the United Kingdom on February 28, 2021
5.0 out of 5 stars Love this recipe book
Bought this as my old copy had lost some pages, I love the recipes in here and have been using them for years!
- AngeliqueReviewed in Canada on June 30, 2012
5.0 out of 5 stars French Food Makes Everything Better
Initially I borrowed Chocolate & Zucchini from the library, looking for a bit of culinary escapism to transform a bad day. Six soul-saving recipes later - the Very Chocolate Cookies, and the Chocolate and Zucchini Cake seemed to make all my problems magically disappear! - I knew it had to become part of my collection. There are user-friendly recipes containing intriguing and unusual ingredients, and bright photos that tempt you to try everything. The author's entertaining anecdotes and sidebars about various ingredients dare you to indulge in the adventure of exploring French cuisine. Clotilde Dusoulier's cookbook has been an inspiring read which has given me much incentive to prepare and share even more of her recipes. It is a resource that I would highly recommend, (and not just to turn bad days into good ones). Merci!